Swami’s, a point break in Encinitas, is one of Kirk’s favorite surf spots. I’m not a big fan because it’s usually so crowded. But, on rare occasions of light traffic, it can be a lot of fun.

Once every few weeks, when the surf report looks good and he can pull himself out of bed at 6 a.m., Kirk will surf Swami’s before heading into work. Sometimes I’ll join him; we did this one morning while my parents were here.

All photos taken by my lovely mom. ☼